A shortened version of the closed, one-piece gown of the 15th century. It was normally worn under another gown or robe, e.g., levite gown, and differed from other dresses in that it had a turned-down collar and usually fastened in the back. When it was first introduced, people viewed it as an "under-dress" meant to be seen only at home, but as the formality of dress codes relaxed, it became accepted as decent outdoor attire. (Cunnington, Dictionary, 86.)

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