by C.J. Carnacchio
The Martini. The king of cocktails. Ambrosia. Bogie and Bacall in a glass. Sophistication and style with a side of olives. More than just a mere drink. As author William Grimes put it, "For the true martini believer, the combination of gin, vermouth, and olive is the Holy Trinity." During the cocktail hour, we shall all find salvation.
The Martini harkens back to a time when the man behind the bar was a doctor of mixology as opposed to some monkey who can pull a tap. The only music to be heard in your favorite watering hole was the gentle rhythm of the cocktail shaker coupled with some cool jazz and not the annoying sounds of synthesized music coupled with an obnoxious DJ. It was an era when women were women and men wore hats (not dirty white baseball caps either). Sinatra was still doing it his way and you could smoke anywhere you damn well pleased.
The 1990s have witnessed a revival of the classic cocktail as many Baby Boomers and Generation X-ers are searching for something more refined than Budweiser and Boon's Farm Wine. As with all revivals these days, there comes a flood of books on the subject. The latest tome paying homage to the current Martini madness is entitled The Martini Companion: A Connoisseur's Guide penned by Gary Regan and Mardee Haidin Regan. The book traces all facets of the Martini from its mixing and ingredients to its historical origins and modern recipes.
The first few chapters are devoted to the "art" and history of the Martini. The "art" of the Martini consists of a discussion of the pros and cons of shaking vs. stirring, gin vs. vermouth, proper garnishes, and the sacred chalice from which the holy elixir is imbibed: the V-shaped cocktail glass.
The history consists of a recounting of the cocktail's controversial origins. Some say it was created in 1910 by head bartender Martini di Arma di Taggia, of New York's famous Knickerbocker Hotel, for oil magnate John D. Rockefeller. Others claim that it was created in 1849 for a gold miner at a bar in Martinez, California. There are numerous other claims, but all of the Martini's origins are indefinite and hotly contested by barroom theologians.
After having read many volumes on this most sacred of subjects, what most impressed this reviewer was the extremely thorough description of well over 50 different brands of gin, vodka, and vermouth. The authors give a general history of each liquor followed by a catalogue of all major premium brands on the market. This catalogue includes a brief history of the brand, a description of its production, and the authors' tasting notes. While the tastings are a highly subjective matter and really should be left to the individual drinker, they do serve as a decent guide to novices.
The last chapter of the book is devoted to various Martini recipes that range from the traditional to nouveau. Being a gin purist, this reviewer found the section to be nothing other than heretical. A true Martini should be composed of nothing other than gin (or vodka, out of respect for James Bond) and vermouth. The only acceptable garnishes should be either olives, lemon peels, or pearl onions. Many of these mutations call for main ingredients such as brandy, sambuca, and flavored vodkas, and garnishes such as coffee beans, chili peppers, and blackberries. While these drinks can be called cocktails, they are not Martinis but rather pretenders to the throne. But until the Martini Inquisition, this heresy will have to be tolerated; for now.
All in all, this book is an excellent new bible to the cult of the Martini despite its heresies. Whether your a fresh livered novice or a gin soaked old pro, this guide has something to offer everyone. Stagger over to your nearest bookstore and pick up a copy today. After you have finished your cocktail of course. MR