Complexity Theory
A Wine Review by William Wetmore and Daniel Keebler

Alois Lageder

Pinot  Grigio

1997 - Alte Adigo, Italy

Nose curiously like a perfumed Vouvray, with flighty hints of rose and magnolia blossoms — thrilling! Rippling waves of apple in the nose, with muscular pear and peach aromas. Like the smell of one’s dearest sorority girl at the start of the evening. Chopin waltzes are the prime accompaniment, and though Vivaldi will suffice for some, note that this particular selection is well-suited to both major- and minor-key pieces (esp. concerto no.5 of L’estro Armonico). Flirtatious attack, with medium body. Palate is consistent with the nose, though pears more pronounced. Acquiescent finish. Excellent in rainy (preferably warmer) weather, but not with fog. Not recommended for those who purchased the new Nine Inch Nails CD — or any NIN CD, for that matter.

Marques de Caceres

Tempranillo Blend

1995- Rioja Alta

A cork like the perfumed panties of some one night mistake. Boysenberry and raspberry in the nose, with piquant clove and subtle overtones of grass and smoke. Consistent and rather deep color, despite the questionable blending practices in Rioja. Heavy tannins, very grapey, with strong currents of tar and smoke, even a tinge of Marlboro Red (not that we’ve ever smoked such vulgar cigarettes) in the finish. Very heavy texture, but it simply does not unfold; could benefit from more aging (this winery uses more traditional Bordeaux-type production methods than do other producers in the region). Reminiscent of Schubert in an obnoxious mood. Not recommended to those waiting at Shaman Drum for American Culture texts.

Kunde

Merlot

1997 – Sonoma

Vibrant inoffensive cherries abound from the cork.  The spicy attack leaves the palate groping for a distant yet clearly familiar memory.  An excellent selection for the season: a pre-color change, light-jacket autumnal sensation of underbrush and alkaline soil glide one into its calming, patient evolution. Medium to full bodied all around, complex but not ostentatious. Baker’s chocolate pervades the spicy reprise of its finish,  like the remnants of dark red lipstick after a nightcap kiss, when a vaporous cinnamon aroma echoes from afar, like the voice of some heartbroken mother calling her only son back from the brink of darkest sin. Altogether Mendelssohnian. Not recommended for professors who wear jeans. MR

Fourchaume

Premier Cru

1996 – Chablis

Ominsous green flairs to the cork lend a sullen atmosphere to a hopeful evening. A thoroughly citrus nose with slight room for apple and perhaps butter. Lemon-like infusion grapples the attack with high acidity--remarkably unoaked. Abrasive, difficult, but not altogether unpleasing. Evolution is quick and unrevealing. The finish, a citrus reprise. Almost an opponent--a chess match stalemated on the palate. Best from 2001-2008. Rakhmaninov and Maple Trees are the clear companions, alothough Paganini in minor keys may satisfy those under young Birches. Not recomded for people who read the Review. MR