We now add some colour to the portions of the shield that we scraped off with the Dremel tool. I am using an enamel based paint for this. For parts that are deeper scraped, I dilute the paint with thinner and then fill the colour in generously.
Without letting the paint dry completely, I wipe the excess paint off. If you wipe off too much, just repaint.
Because it would look a little too plain with just one colour, I add a little rust to the shield with a brownish colour.
Since I want to lighten this a little, I use a dry brush and some sort of enamel colour and brush over the shield part. I want to make sure that the thinner I've soaked into the brush has evaporated before doing this. You may want to practice on a stray piece of plastic to get the hang of not leaving brush strokes behind once the piece is dry.
Remember that when you are using the dry brush, you don't have to only use one colour. If you are using a single colour, instead of lightening the piece the same all over, you may want to have a section lighter or darker than the other. It does not have to be uniform. Don't be afraid to experiment.
Though there are brushes made especially for dry brushing, you can pretty much use any brush you want, though you should find one where the brush hairs are not too tough or hard. As for colours, use what fits with the model you're making. For this project, I used a dark yellow.
Once you've put battle damage or dry brushed weathering on a model, you can see the differences quite clearly when you compare your beaten up model with a regular one. It's completely up to you as to which one you prefer, but you have to admit, the worn one looks a little more realistic.
