Day 3 - Cleveland, Miss.










On tour of sites in the Mississippi Delta
Rachel Warnick:
I'm in Cleveland, MS, in the Delta, which is an area that developed alongside the Mississippi River as a plantation-sharecropping economy in the early 20th Century. This morning we went to a black Baptist Church. The people were all very welcoming of our group and the preaching and singing was unlike anything I've experienced before. The choir was just beautiful. And the organ-player, who wasn't using any music, was so uplifting, even for me as a Jew. I can really understand how spirituality and spiritual music played such an important role in the Movement. Spiritual sustainment like that must have been so important in sustaining strength in the face of violence and fear My favorite parts, I think, were when the choir was singing and one would come down in front as a soloist. I think that passion itself is so extraordinary, and so extraordinarily beautiful, and these men and women were so passionate about God and Jesus and it was just so beautiful. And then, for one of the last songs they did, a little old women, very small and totally unassuming, with thinning hair, got up to sing above the choir, and wow could that lady sing. And then the preacher too, just a complete passion for his Lord that I can't even describe.


Luther Brown
Sam Butler:
My impression of the south in general was that it was like another country, but this also is a mentality had in Mississippi. In the state that never prohibited the making of whiskey, they see themselves as totally independent and have an innate abhorrence to federal government. There seems to be a culture of just letting things lie and an avoidance of creating laws that seem to be common sense. There seems to be a mentality of just letting people figure things out for themselves. That confederate independence still thrives in the south. This is the state that has the no man's lands between AK and MS, where the fingers of the river have left huge islands, never claimed by either state. This is the area that has state owned levees on top of land owned by the farmer. It seems like a paradox, but the system for the most part seems to work itself out just fine.


Charles McLaurin
Rachel Warnick:
After that we went back to eat, and then we took a tour of the Delta. We saw the path where they took Emmett Till, and the old store where he had made his comment. Luther, the man from Delta State who was leading the tour, made an interesting comment about the Bryants, who had owned the store: The white community rallied behind them when they accused Emmett Till, but afterward were driven out of town and had become complete "white trash." It was a fascinating commentary on the race and class relations in the deep South of that time. Then we had dinner on Dockery Farms, a huge plantation in the Delta. There we talked to Charles McLaurin, who was really interesting also, but I unfortunately did not have my notebook to take notes. And then we were on the bus on the way back to the hotel and someone put in "Happy Day" on the sound system and it was entirely dark on the bus and we were all singing along and it was so surreal and so out of a movie. Our group as a whole really comes together most especially in song, I guess. Maybe that song was the theme of today.


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